It was the best of beers, it was the worst of beers. To my friend, Steve Ruis, co-owner of two swanky beer and cheese joints in our hometown of Grand Rapids, MI (Art of the Table and Aperitivo), it was the best of the more than thirty beers we tasted on our two-city Belgium beer tour. To JP Van Seventer, our friend from Amsterdam, and me, it tasted overwhelmingly, lip-twistingly, noxiously sweet-sour. Mostly sour. “Sniff it first,” Steve suggested. “It has the aroma of old socks.” JP and I heartily concurred but this was not exactly a selling point.